Archive for the ‘Scrambling’ Category

Classic North Wales Scrambling

July 11, 2009

Cneifion Arete, Cwm Idwal, North WalesMariano and Barbara were keen to learn how best to use a rope when on harder scrambles so they could go out confidently on their own. They had already tackled classics such as Crib Goch and the North Ridge of Tryfan on their own and without a rope but were keen to get onto more challenging terrain. We walked into a mist shrouded Cwm Idwal which was peacefully quiet and empty of people for this time of summer. We started up the right hand side of the Idwal slabs learning the basics of taking coils and doing short pitches using direct belays and braced stances. As we got higher up and onto slightly easier terrain, I came off the rope and Mariano and Barbara led themselves up to the junction with Seniors ridge. A stop for a late lunch gave us a chance to take in the clearing views down the Nant Francon valley and out to the Menai Straits, Anglesey and the Irish Sea. We then made a swift ascent of the classic grade 3 scramble Cneifion Arete which was a great chance to put everything learnt in the morning into practice. We got back to the car at Ogwen Cottage just before the rain clouds gathered and it proceeded to hammer down all night. Perfect timing.

Today I was working for James Thacker


Cuillin Ridge Traverse – perfect weather

June 4, 2009

celebrating on the summit of the Inaccessible Pinnacle

After a couple of days of scorching temperatures cooler air from the North moved in yesterday bringing much better conditions for a ridge traverse attempt. Michael was keen to attempt as much of the ridge as possible starting with Sgurr nan Eag in the South. We left Glen Brittle at 6am but were soon stripping down to t-shirts.  We started at a gentle but steady pace but it did not seem long before we were on Alasdair – the highest point on the island. After the crowds of the previous half term week the mountains seemed almost deserted and we were to see very few people all day. We even had the Innaccessible Pinnacle to ourselves – a rarity on such a stunning day. The complexity of the northern half of the ridge came as a shock to Michael who thought the worst was past after the Pinn. But we were moving well and if anything we were speeding up. The temperature dropped suddenly as we approached Am Basteir and with extra layers on we decided to skirt around the tooth and double back from Bealach a Basteir. Michael had climbed Gillean on a previous trip so back on the col and with business meetings looming the following day in Inverness we decided to leave the final summit and head down the never ending path to the Sligachan. The sun dipped below a ridge on the horizon just as we walked into the pub car park. The first time we had been out of the sun since we left Glen Brittle 16 hours earlier. What an amazing day!

Today I was working for Mike Lates – Skye Guides .

Isle of Skye – Rock climbing and Scrambling. Space Available

May 23, 2009

The Cuillin Ridge, Isle of SkyeI am currently on the Isle of Skye. I am here for one month working for Mike Lates – Skye Guides  . We already had some fantastic weather and although the next few days look a bit unsettled its looks like high pressure is re-establishing itself again at the end of the week which should bring some more great weather. Please get in touch if you are interested in any walking, scrambling or rock climbing opportunities anywhere on the Isle of Skye.

As well as guiding various parts of the ridge I have managed to get to Neist Point and Rhubha Hunish for some fantastic sea cliff climbing. Neist reminded me of a smaller more friendly version of Fairhead in Ireland. We were even lucky enough to be joined by a pod of dolphins. Rhubha Hunish sits at the far northern tip of Skye and is a beautifully unspoilt headland. Well worth a visit even if you just want a walk. The cliffs here are mainly 2 pitches but with some suspect rock the climbing is quite a bit more adventurous than at Neist.

Think about all those great Skye ambitions you’ve always had and get in touch to let us help make them reality.

Innacessible Pinnacle & New Routing, Skye

May 14, 2009

Sitting Happy! Summit of the Inaccessible Pinnacle, Skye

Today I was out shadowing again for Skye Guides

. Mike and I took 3 clients up the Innaccsessible Pinnacle. As the weather was still set perfect it would have been rude not to maximise the day so we then continued on around Coire Lagan taking in Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, Thealach, Sgurr Alasdair before heading off down the Great Stone Shoot.

Mike was not content with that though. Once we had safely seen the clients onto the path out of Coire Lagan we got into rock climbing mode. Mike is writting the new SMC guidebook to Skye and knows where many of the unclimbed lines are. Despite being in the most visited part of the Cuillin he was soon pointing me up a steep corner groove near the bottom of the Great Stone Shoot. This gave an entertaining 30m VS pitch which allowed us an easy walk off back into the stone shoot and a rapid walk out at the end of a fantastic day out.







New Route. Big Corner groove near the base of the Great Stone Shoot, Skye

Southern Munros, Cuillin Ridge, Skye

May 13, 2009

Looking out to Rhum from Coire a Ghunndha, Isle of Skye

Today I was shadowing Lochie with 3 clients covering the 2 munroes at the Southern end of the Cuillin Ridge. We were working for Mike Lates – Skye Guides. The weather was perfect with amazing views out to the Outer Hebrides. We also had uninterupted views down to the snow capped summit of Ben Nevis.

We took a direct line up the Gabbro slabs into Coire Ghrundha before steep scree and rocks lead up to Sgurr nan Eag. The main scrambling of the day then took us over to Sgurr du Mhor before we traversed under the TD gap to the summit of the Sgumain stone shoot and a rapid descent back to Coire Lagan and the Glen Brittle campsite.





High on Sgurr du Mhor, Cuillin Ridge, Isle of Skye

Great Scrambling on Tryfan and the Glyders

April 11, 2009

Darrell enjoying the scrambling on Bristly Ridge, Glyders Today Darrell, Kath and I had a very enjoyable day scrambling in North Wales. We went up the North Ridge of Tryfan, up Bristly Ridge over the Cantilever stone and Castell y Gwynt and then down the Cribin and False Cribin. In doing so we maximised the time spent on interesting scrambling terrain and despite it being a busy sunny saturday we managed to find piece and quiet away from the crowds elsewhere.

It is one of the beauties of this area, that with a bit of local knowledge you can find interesting and enjoyable routes up all the peaks away from all the tourist crowds even on the busiest weekends.